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Hotel Posada del Centro   Hotel     $$/$$$     (A)
Housed in a restored colonial mansion, the welcoming Posada del Centro is a good low-budget option for a hotel centrally located just three blocks west of the Zócalo, especially the six rooms with shared bath. Nicer midrange rooms with private baths are also available. For long-term stays, be sure to negotiate a cut in price. Its two interior patios are a relaxing place to plan the days activities, meet up with other like-minded travelers, or piddle away the day with a good book. The staff is helpful and friendly.

  • Independencia 403, half-block west of Tinoco Y Palacios;  North of Independencia, Centro Histórico;  16 rooms w/ private bath Mex$500/550/640/750 (s/d/t/q),  6 rooms with shared bath Mex$250/370/490/590 (s/d/t/q);  Most major credit cards;  phone/fax 951-516-1874;  www.mexonline.com/posada.htm;  posadabb@prodigy.net.mx.  
  • Restaurant (breakfast & lunch),  two courtyards,  telephone & fax,  wifi and free use of computer,  laundry sent out at cost,  free parking,  money exchange (USD & Euros),  individual safe deposit box at front desk,  free filtered water,  baby crib.  
  • Room: Fan,  cable TV & telephone in rooms with private bath.  

Casa de las Bugambilias   Bed & Breakfast, Temazcal     $$$     (B)
Not yet reviewed. US phone 321-249-9422.

  • Reforma 402, half-block north of Abasolo;  North of Independencia, Centro Histórico;  9 rooms some w/ AC and/or balcony, $75/$85, (s/d);  Most major credit cards;  phone/fax 951-516-1165;  www.lasbugambilias.com.  
  • Restaurant La Olla, 2-course Mexican gourmet breakfast included, Temazcal, cooking classes, roof-top terrace, multilingual staff, library with over 500 books, sitting room with TV and internet connected computer, access to medical services, non-smoking establishment, tour info, safe, laundry service, babysitter upon request, free local calls and international calls to the US, Canada, Japan, England, Ireland, Spain, Italy, and France.  
  • Room: Fans, wireless, phone.  

Casa Oaxaca   Hotel     $$$     (C)
In addition to the restaurant in the hotel, the owner and chef, Alejandro Ruiz Olmedo, operates two other restaurants in the city — the Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante on Constitución, south of the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, and the Casa Oaxaca Café in the Reforma neighborhood.

Camino Real Oaxaca   Hotel, Colonial Architecture     $$$$     (C)

Camino Real Oaxaca — Oaxaca City, Oaxaca

Founded in 1568 as a small cottage with four nuns living in it, the convent had grown by the early 18th century into the large compound that still exists today, one city block in size, enclosed by high stonewalls, with a large chapel, the Santa Catalina de Siena, and five arcaded courtyards and cloisters inside.

As it did with most church proprieties in 1859, the federal government expropriated the convent, turning it over to the city, which in turn used it as a jail and city hall. Unlike most expropriated church properties, though, which were eventually given back to the orders that founded them or the Catholic Church, the convent was turned over to private hands, where it was used as a movie theater and a Masonic lodge before being converted into the city’s most elegant and expensive hotel, the Camino Real. During this time, the interior of the convent was subjected to several makeovers and restorations, and even though it is still beautiful, it has, for the most part, been stripped of its original ornamentation and furnishings, save a few fragments of murals on the walls, some old oil pots, a handful of restored colonial paintings, and a smattering of furniture.

Even if a night’s stay is beyond your means, the place is still worth a visit, especially the chapel with its dark, cavernous nave, where reenactments of the Guelaguetza folk dances are held every Friday night. (The price of admission includes a buffet dinner.) But perhaps what is most captivating architecturally about the former convent is the small octagonal-shaped outbuilding the nuns used as a washhouse. Located in the northeast courtyard, the washhouse is ringed with arches and covered with a Moorish dome, at its center a fountain surrounded by a dozen washbasins, its waterworks fully functional.

  • Cinco de Mayo 300, just north of Murguia;  North of Independencia, Centro Histórico;  91 rooms, USD$271/271/311 (s/d/t);  Most major credit cards;  phone 951-516-0611951-501-6100;  fax 951-516-0732;  www.caminoreal.com/oaxaca;  oax@caminoreal.com;  Reservations recommended.  
  • Restaurant El Refectorio, outdoor heated swimming pool, 24 hour room service, safe deposit box, laundry and dry cleaning, two bars: Las Novicias & Las Bugambilias, shop and news stand, taxi stand, doctor on-call.  
  • Room: phone, satellite TV, hair dryer, AC, internet.  

Parador San Miguel   Hotel     $$$$-$$$$$     (E)
Set in a lovingly restored colonial mansion, the hotel Parador San Miguel retains many of the excesses of that era — stain glass windows, wrought iron gates, green granite columns, and, and ... the list goes on and on. Inside, the wide corridors lead to twenty-three hand-carved cedar doors, each opening to a spacious room or suite with a high ceiling, the decor exclusively handcrafted Oaxacan or Méxican. (Check availability or reserve online at booking.com.)

The hotel's upscale restaurant, El Andariego, every bit as refined as the restored colonial mansion it resides in, features fine renditions of Oaxacan classics — the moles here are as good as any in the city. For comida, bargain hunters will be pleased with the always tasty menú del dia, served after 1 p.m., costing a mere 80 pesos. The only downside to this place is the disappointing wine list, which is limited to a few South American and Spanish vintages.

  • Independencia 503, one block west of the Zócalo;  North of Independencia, Centro Histórico;  Most major credit cards;  phone 951-514-9331;  www.paradorsanmigueloaxaca.com;  sanmigueloaxaca@hotmail.com.  
  • Restaurant (breakfast & lunch),  two courtyards,  telephone & fax,  wifi and free use of computer,  laundry sent out at cost,  free parking,  money exchange (USD & Euros),  individual safe deposit box at front desk,  free filtered water,  baby crib.  
  • Room: Fan,  cable TV & telephone in rooms with private bath.  
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